After a long and quite boring drive DonQui arrives at the penultimate stop on his epic European road trip — Versailles. Of course he is here to view the palace which was built by King Louis XIV to escape the noise and smells of Paris and also to imprison his nobles in a golden cage.
The approach to the front gate is truly spectacular.
DonQui imagines how awe inspiring it must have been for guests arriving in the 17th century from the provinces or other countries.
Tickets have set entry times to avoid overcrowding. Yet DonQui struggles at times negotiating large tour groups which tend to clog up entrances to the most interesting parts of the palace such as the famous hall of mirrors.
The king’s bedchamber does not look particularly comfortable and his bed seems remarkably small.
At least he didn’t have far to go to reach his modest private chapel when in the mood to say a prayer or two.
DonQui very much enjoys the Gallery of Battles which is adorned with large paintings featuring French victories from Clovis to Napoleon. There is no mention of defeats. This painting shows Louis XIV leading the storming party at the siege of Spanish-held Valenciennes in 1677. Well not exactly leading, as the King’s Musketeers are in front of him. In truth he was probably not there at all, which just goes to show that Fake News is not a 21st century invention.
DonQui is quite looking forward to a good trot around the grounds but, although they are quite pleasant and uncrowded, he is a little underwhelmed. Lots of works are going on to get them ready for the 2024 Olympics when the grounds will host the equestrian events. There is quite a bit of replanting going on and no blooms anywhere in sight.
It is a shame that none of the impressive fountains are in operation.
None-the-less it is a pleasant trot through the extensive grounds. Leaving the coach loads of visitors behind him, DonQui reaches the Trianon estate which good King Louis built for his mistress Madame de Montespan and where they carried our their amorous liaisons.
In a pleasant contrast to the main palace, DonQui has the place to almost to himself.
Apart from the palace and its adjuncts, modern Versailles does not have much to offer the visitor. It looks and feels like a Paris suburb — which is indeed what it is. There are, however, a few pleasant streets.
The following morning DonQui visits the King’s Kitchen Gardens which are maintained as 17th century kitchen gardens would have been with traditional vegetables, fruit and herbs. It reminds him of the Chelsea Physic Garden in London which dates from the same time.
There is a lovely scent of herbs in the air and the fountain is working, even if it is not much of a fountain.
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