The Périgord is a region of France DonQui has never visited before. He is excited to have a few days free to explore.
The scenery is stunning with rocky outcrops, deep ravines and deciduous forest interspersed with farmland. The villages are incredibly pretty with buildings all made from the sandy limestone that is characteristic of this region. Hiking and cycling trails are ubiquitous and plenty of places offer canoe trips on the Dordogne river.
DonQui’s first port of call is the beautiful town of Sarlat which is quite close to where he is staying.
Built around a 9th century Benedictine abby, the old city is one of the best preserved in France with much of the architecture (albeit restored) dating to the 14th century.
DonQui’s host at his gîte recommends lunch at the hamlet of Montfort. It turns out to be very good advice both for the location and food.
The gourmet speciality of this region (vegans look away now) is foie gras. The terrine de foie gras is utterly delicious.
DonQui is also quite taken by the Rocamadour goat’s cheese served with a little honey. He will be going to Rocamadour shortly and resolves to pick some up to bring home with him.
After lunch he takes a short walk along the Dordogne ravine to work off a calorie or two.
On Duchess’s advice (she visited this area years ago), DonQui heads out to the Gouffre de Padirac the following day. This is an immense chasm over 100m deep with long caves and an underground river. The drop from the surface to the caves below is straight down. Fortunately there are now lifts in place so DonQui is not obliged to recall his abseiling lessons from long ago.
Words fail DonQui as he tries to describe the grandeur, atmosphere and incredible geological wonders that he encounters. So the photos will have to serve.
Eventually the footpath winding its way through the cavern comes to an end. DonQui’s journey then continues in a small boat along the underground river.
DonQui is quite certain that this underground lake is the very place where the hobbit Bilbo Baggins encountered Gollum after discovering the ring and escaping the goblins.
Then it is on to Rocamadour. Tightly hugging a steep gorge, Rocamadour is on three levels — chateau at the top, religious sanctuary in the middle and small town at the bottom. Fortunately, once again, there are lifts. The small medieval town lies along a single road on the lower level by the river. Being impossible to defend, the inhabitants had to take sanctuary on the upper levels when attack was threatened. This happened several times in the middle ages, invariably when threatened by marauding English armies.
The view from the top is stunning. Although the battlements can be walked around, the chateau itself is private.
The Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin on the middle level has been a pilgrimage site since the 12th century. The first miracle attributed to the Virgin Mary here was recorded in 1148, many more are alleged to have taken place since. Most of the current buildings date to the 15th century when much of Rocamadour was rebuilt.
The much venerated wooden statue of the Black Madonna is believed to have been carved in the 12th century.
DonQui heads back to Sarlat for his final supper in this delightful region. He choses the unpretentious Bistrot de Sarlat hoping for some typical French bistro food.
And that is exactly what he gets.
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