France

Even a Donkey can Dream

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Leaving Versailles, DonQui navigates his way around Paris and then heads towards Calais and home. 

He breaks his journey for an overnight stay at Azincourt, better know in English as Agincourt — the site of the 1415 battle where Henry V’s vastly outnumbered English decimated the flower of French chivalry. 

DonQui spends the night at the delightful Au Repos du Roi in the tiny hamlet of Maisoncelle. 

Now a working farm, this is the very same place that King Henry V spent the night before the battle in 1415.

As a young colt DonQui quite fancied himself as a stout yeoman archer standing firm and loosing arrow after arrow against the advancing knights. Of course had he actually been there it is far more likely he would have been assigned to the baggage train to haul supplies. Still, even a donkey can dream the impossible!

“From this day to the ending of the world,

But we in it shall be remembered,

We few, we happy few, we band of brothers.

For he today that sheds his blood with me,

Shall be my brother.” (Wm. Shakespeare, Henry V)

There is a small visitor centre in Azincourt which gives a good orientation to the battle and the events leading up to it. 

The actual battlefield is — well a field. This is the view from the far right of the English position looking towards the French. The woods that hemmed in both sides of the field in 1415 have now been mostly cut down. 

After a last fabulous French breakfast, DonQui heads off on the very last leg of his road trip.

The border controls on the French side of the channel tunnel are far less chaotic than they had been on the English side. 

After one month and 3000 miles, DonQui is soon back home in Suffolk

Palace of the Sun King

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After a long and quite boring drive DonQui arrives at the penultimate stop on his epic European road trip — Versailles. Of course he is here to view the palace which was built by King Louis XIV to escape the noise and smells of Paris and also to imprison his nobles in a golden cage. 

The approach to the front gate is truly spectacular.

DonQui imagines how awe inspiring it must have been for guests arriving in the 17th century from the provinces or other countries. 

Tickets have set entry times to avoid overcrowding. Yet DonQui struggles at times negotiating large tour groups which tend to clog up entrances to the most interesting parts of the palace such as the famous hall of mirrors.

The king’s bedchamber does not look particularly comfortable and his bed seems remarkably small.

At least he didn’t have far to go to reach his modest private chapel when in the mood to say a prayer or two.

DonQui very much enjoys the Gallery of Battles which is adorned with large paintings featuring French victories from Clovis to Napoleon. There is no mention of defeats. This painting shows Louis XIV leading the storming party at the siege of Spanish-held Valenciennes in 1677. Well not exactly leading, as the King’s Musketeers are in front of him. In truth he was probably not there at all,  which just goes to show that Fake News is not a 21st century invention.

DonQui is quite looking forward to a good trot around the grounds but, although they are quite pleasant and uncrowded, he is a little underwhelmed. Lots of works are going on to get them ready for the 2024 Olympics when the grounds will host the equestrian events. There is quite a bit of replanting going on and no blooms anywhere in sight.

It is a shame that none of the impressive fountains are in operation.

None-the-less it is a pleasant trot through the extensive grounds. Leaving the coach loads of visitors behind him, DonQui reaches the Trianon estate which good King Louis built for his mistress Madame de Montespan and where they carried our their amorous liaisons. 

In a pleasant contrast to the main palace, DonQui has the place to almost to himself.

Apart from the palace and its adjuncts, modern Versailles does not have much to offer the visitor. It looks and feels like a Paris suburb — which is indeed what it is. There are, however, a few pleasant streets.

The following morning DonQui visits the King’s Kitchen Gardens which are maintained as  17th century kitchen gardens would have been with traditional vegetables, fruit and herbs. It reminds him of the Chelsea Physic Garden in London which dates from the same time.

There is a lovely scent of herbs in the air and the fountain is working, even if it is not much of a fountain.

Caves and Castles

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The Périgord is a region of France DonQui has never visited before. He is excited to have a few days free to explore.

The scenery is stunning with rocky outcrops, deep ravines and deciduous forest interspersed with farmland. The villages are incredibly pretty with buildings all made from the sandy limestone that is characteristic of this region. Hiking and cycling trails are ubiquitous and plenty of places offer canoe trips on the Dordogne river.

DonQui’s first port of call is the beautiful town of Sarlat which is quite close to where he is staying. 

Built around a 9th century Benedictine abby, the old city is one of the best preserved in France with much of the architecture (albeit restored) dating to the 14th century.

DonQui’s host at his gîte recommends lunch at the hamlet of Montfort. It turns out to be very good advice both for the location and food.

The gourmet speciality of this region (vegans look away now) is foie gras. The terrine de foie gras is utterly delicious.

DonQui is also quite taken by the Rocamadour goat’s cheese served with a little honey. He will be going to Rocamadour shortly and resolves to pick some up to bring home with him. 

After lunch he takes a short walk along the Dordogne ravine to work off a calorie or two. 

On Duchess’s advice (she visited this area years ago), DonQui heads out to the Gouffre de Padirac the following day. This is an immense chasm over 100m deep with long caves and an underground river. The drop from the surface to the caves below is straight down. Fortunately there are now lifts in place so DonQui is not obliged to recall his abseiling lessons from long ago.

Words fail DonQui as he tries to describe the grandeur, atmosphere and incredible geological wonders that he encounters. So the photos will have to serve. 

Eventually the footpath winding its way through the cavern comes to an end. DonQui’s journey then continues in a small boat along the underground river. 

DonQui is quite certain that this underground lake is the very place where the hobbit Bilbo Baggins encountered Gollum after discovering the ring and escaping the goblins.

Then it is on to Rocamadour. Tightly hugging a steep gorge, Rocamadour is on three levels — chateau at the top, religious sanctuary in the middle and small town at the bottom. Fortunately, once again, there are lifts. The small medieval town lies along a single road on the lower level by the river. Being impossible to defend, the inhabitants had to take sanctuary on the upper levels when attack was threatened. This happened several times in the middle ages, invariably when threatened by marauding English armies.

The view from the top is stunning. Although the battlements can be walked around, the chateau itself is private.

The Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin on the middle level has been a pilgrimage site since the 12th century. The first miracle attributed to the Virgin Mary here was recorded in 1148, many more are alleged to have taken place since. Most of the current buildings date to the 15th century when much of Rocamadour was rebuilt.

The much venerated wooden statue of the Black Madonna is believed to have been carved in the 12th century.

DonQui heads back to Sarlat for his final supper in this delightful region. He choses the unpretentious Bistrot de Sarlat hoping for some typical French bistro food.

And that is exactly what he gets.

Sojourn in Arles

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DonQui has stayed in Arles before and loved the city. So he is going to revisit for a couple of days before heading to the Mediterranean coast.

He loves simply wandering around the streets without any particular plan just to see what is around the next corner.

And Arles is an eminently walkable city. At this time of year (May) it is not overrun with tourists apart from a few small gaggles temporarily let off their cruise ships for good behaviour.

An important Gallo-Roman town and capital of Roman Gaul in the 5th C AD, there is plenty of good Roman stuff for DonQui to enjoy. The Roman arena served as walls of the city in the middle ages with most of the town (much reduced after the Roman era) being crammed inside it.

The arena was cleared and partially restored in the early 20th century and now once again functions as a place of entertainment — although without  gladiatorial combat as far as DonQui can ascertain.

The well-preserved Roman amphitheatre is also still in use for plays and concerts.

After a good trot around the place, DonQui pauses for a little sustenance at the delightful Restaurant Escaladou, just around the corner from the Roman arena.

When abroad DonQui likes to sample local dishes rather than something he might have at home. In this case his meal starts with this delicious Provençal fish soup complete with croutons, cheese and rouille (a sort of aioli made with egg yolks). It is followed by a traditional stew of Camargue wild bull (gardiane de taureau)— well, partially wild as although roaming freely through the salt marshes of the Camargue the herds are looked after by humans. The slow-cooked meat is lean, tender and flavoursome.

Arles was immortalised by Vincent Van Gogh who stayed here to paint some of his most famous works (1888–1889). 

There are couple of places that have been maintained more or less as they were when he painted them.

With the weather warming up to a pleasant 27º DonQui now heads to the sea to cool off and relax for a few days.

From Italy to France

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DonQui could quite happily have spent another day in Verona but he must be on his way to the south of France.

It is a long journey first through the flat fields of Lombardy and then into the Ligurian alps. He decides to break his trip with an overnight stay in Genoa.

Genoa is perhaps not the most exciting of cities but it is pleasant enough for a quick visit and it is about half way along his journey. DonQui spends an enjoyable afternoon trotting around the streets before stopping for an aperitivo to watch the evening passeggiata. 

Then he has his last meal in Italy which includes a delightfully flavoursome tortelli with sea bass, clams and bottarga (cured, dried fish roe). The bottarga adds a taste not dissimilar from parmesan cheese.

His car fuelled with petrol and his body fuelled with super concentrated Italian coffee, DonQui continues his journey the following morning. His route takes him along the coastal road that winds its way through the Ligurian alps and then the French alpes maritimes. 

Reaching Monaco at around lunch time he makes a brief pit stop.

Then he heads up the small winding road to La Turbie to visit the massive ‘Augustus Trophy’ (Tropaeum Alpium). Dominating the landscape for miles around, this monument was built between AD 14 and 27 to commemorate the subjugation of the last Gallic alpine tribes by the Romans.

It probably looked like this when first built.

A fine statue of Augustus, which was probably on the top of the monument, is now housed in a small museum.

The views from the top are stunning.

Saying goodbye to Augustus,  DonQui dives on along the Côte d’Azur to Arles where he shall be resting and exploring for the next couple of days.

Fine dining in Alsace

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Eating well in Alsace is not difficult. There is very little about Alsatian cuisine than DonQui does not love. On this trip he decides he will try some of the best. He has managed to secure reservations at two of the top restaurants in the region: Au Crocodile in Strasbourg and L’Auberge de l’Ill in Illhaeusern just off the Route des Vins about half way between Strasbourg and Colmar.

Au Crocodile gets its name from a stuffed crocodile brought back from Egypt by Captain Ackermann, one of Napoleon’s officers. It became a restaurant in 1840 and the original crocodile is still there on display.

Taking his seat DonQui is most impressed by the ambiance. There is an intimate feel the the restaurant and a sense of its history with the painting of 1840s Strasbourg dominating the dining room. The waiters are very knowledgeable and professional.

Feeling adventurous, DonQui opts for the chef’s ‘discovery menu’: starter, fish course, meat course and desert. It is less expensive than 3 courses à la carte but it is what the chef has decided with no indication of what that is. Even the waiters say they do not know the menu. So DonQui must trust the chef’s expertise.

The absolute highlight of the meal is the starter of snails cooked with speck in a sabayon sauce with cheese — and snail caviar on the side. The flavours are perfectly balanced and the snail caviar an interesting addition. It is far less salty than the more usual fish caviar.

A close second is the pollock with spring vegetables and wild garlic mousse. It is the wild garlic mousse that really makes it. DonQui has some wild garlic in his garden and will attempt to do something similar next year (it being too late in the season by the time he gets home). He is advised by the knowledgeable waiter to pick the wild garlic before the flowers come out.

Being a bit of a cheese lover DonQui cannot resist sampling a selection of cheeses before moving on to desert. The star of the cheeses is the local Munster, kept under a glass dome — no doubt to prevent the pungent aroma from permeating the dining room.

L’Auberge de l’Ill has more of a country feel which is appropriate given that it is out in the countryside far from urban development. This time DonQui orders à la carte.

The homemade terrine de foie gras is absolutely delicious.

As is the filet de veau main course.

Then comes flambéed crepes filled with cream and sour cherries. If that is not calorific enough there is also a side of ice cream! DonQui washes this down with a fine calvados.

Both restaurants provide excellent classic dishes without fuss and without trying to be too clever or ‘chefy’. DonQui finds each dish executed to perfection by confident chefs who have no need to show off.

So if he could only choose one, which would it be? It is a difficult choice because the food at both is wonderful. If he had to make a choice, DonQui would probably go for Au Crocodile because of the ambiance and highly professional service. Incidentally the price of his meal at Au Crocodile was less than at L’Auberge de l’Ill.

On the Route des Vins d’Alsace

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After a bit of a wander around Strasbourg and a very fine meal (more on that later), DonQui decides to explore the Route des vins d’Alsace from Strasbourg to Colmar.

His first stop after leaving Strasbourg is Mittelbergheim — an unspoiled and non-touristy village in the foothills of the Vosges where the vines of Alsace are cultivated. He is quite excited to see a stork with chicks in her nest above the church.

At Hunawihr he makes his first purchase after a little sample of the wines on offer. Safety conscious readers should note that, as he is driving, he only takes a mouthful of each.

Then he trots up a hill to take a look at the 14th Century fortified church which is surrounded by walls complete with bastions and firing ports. 

Alsace has been tramped over and plundered by a succession of armies right up until 1945. DonQui imagines the medieval peasants fleeing the village below for the safety of the church as they see an approaching robber baron.

At dinner in Strasbourg the previous night DonQui had sampled a lovely pinot noir from Dambach-le-Ville so he heads there to procure a case. 

Dambach-le-Ville is a lovely little walled village with yet another nesting stork. 

DonQui dose not remember seeing so many storks in the Rhine valley before but on this trip he sees many of them. It is perhaps a good sign of nature recovering.

DonQui also stops off at Ribauville and Riquewhir. He remembers the latter village as being particularly beautiful on a previous visit years ago.  Yes it is pretty but it seems to have succumbed to a bit of Disneyfication. Unlike the other stops on his route it is also full of other tourists. Still it is enjoyable to walk around, although DonQui does not buy any more wine as post Brexit rules only allow him to bring 18 litres back to the UK.

DonQui’s final stop is the beautiful city of Colmar. From here he will cross the Rhine and head over to Germany.

All in all the Route des vins d’Alsace makes for a most enjoyable day out — leaving his car heavier (with cases of wine) and his wallet lighter.

Crêpes Suzette

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Before leaving his culinary tour of Domaine de Barive, DonQui wishes to mention one more outstanding experiences at their restaurant. This is their Crêpes Suzette.

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Crêpes Suzette may be a little bit old fashioned but then so is DonQui.  Although they are mostly renown for the flashy at-table presentation, the taste of pancakes with citrus, butter and Grand Marnier, is pretty hard to beat.

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They are prepared at DonQui’s table by the skilled, experienced waitress who takes her time. She concentrates more on making sure the pancakes are perfectly prepared, rather than the accompanying theatre.

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That is not to say that the preparation is without theatre at the time of flambéing.

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On the plate the dish looks simple and it it. The taste, however, is sublime.

Great Food and Wine

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For his second meal at Domain de Barive’s Restaurant des Épicuriens DonQui has the time to experience the full set menu. It is utterly superb – each dish an absolute delight.

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After as relaxing Leffe beer on the terrace, which comes with a selection of tasty nibbles, DonQui makes his way to the restaurant where he orders the Menu Château.

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The meal is preceded with a ‘petite touch de salé…’ or ‘amuse-bouche’.

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Along with this there are a selection of breads and two different locally produced butters.

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DonQui chooses the Melon with Maroilles (a local semi-soft white cheese) as his starter.

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Then comes the Scorpion fish with polenta and a tomato-basil sauce.

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Followed by the most exquisite duck breast.

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Feeling that the expansive cheese board would be a bit too much, DonQui opts for the Faisselle (a soft fresh cheese). There are two options for this — savoury, with herbs and shallots, or sweet with fruit coulis. DonQui goes for the sweet option.

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Finally comes an incredible apricot desert.

Each course is a  absolute delight. The amounts are just enough to savour the tastes but not so much as to feel too full afterwards. Apart from the bread there are few carbohydrates. This allows DonQui to fully enjoy every course and not feel bloated afterwards.

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Des Épicuriens offers a wide selection of wines by the glass. DonQui leaves the choices up to the young sommelier who suggests a different wine to suit each of the courses DonQui has ordered. His choices are excellent and DonQui is very glad that he went along with the sommelier’s suggestions. Despite a reasonable acquaintance with French wines, many of those on offer are quite unknown to DonQui. This allows him to sample wines that otherwise he may never have tried. The pairings with each course are perfect.

Personally DonQui is better than some which can show off a Michelin star or two. Too often he finds the food at many starred places a bit too fussy as the chef shows off his clever tricks. Here one gets an excellent modern take on great classic French food, alongside very knowledgeable and friendly service, in an atmospheric setting.

A Fine Domain in France

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Needing to spend some time deep in the countryside of northern France, DonQui looks around for a good place to stay.

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Not far from the medieval city of Laon, he stumbles upon the Domaine de Barive. It is a great find.

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Set in in its own grounds amongst farmland, miles from anywhere it is approached by a long lane lined with poplars. With spa, outdoor terraces and a highly rated restaurant it looks like just the sort of place DonQui can enjoy a few days of tranquil contemplation along with a good meal or two.

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His room is comfortable and spacious. The bathtub even comes with its own rubber ducks, for those who go for that sort of thing.

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Breakfast is a typical French offering, made special by the fine selection of fresh, locally baked breads and pastries along with homemade jams. There is even champagne available along with juices, coffee and other hot drinks.

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Best of all is the Restaurant des Epicuriens. DonQui arrives late after a horribly long wait for his rental car from the very inefficient Avis counter at Paris Charles de Gaulle airport.

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As in most French restaurants, the set menus offer very good value for money but at 9pm DonQui does not feel like a full 4-5 course meal so he orders a la carte, choosing the ‘turbot en trançon’ (turbot filets with spinach in a crispy phyllo pastry) with kumquats and mushrooms in a champagne cream sauce.  It is utterly delicious.

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To finish off he opts for a selection of cheeses from the very tempting cheese board. The choices are so overwhelming that DonQui leaves it up to the very pleasant waitress to help him with his selections.

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Very knowledgeable and helpful, she suggests a sampling of 5 different cheeses, all of which are perfectly ripe, providing a wide range of different flavours.